My interpretation of Singaporean culture is a conglomeration of the most agreeable parts of any number of international societies: Asian foods seasoned with French techniques, pop music from Europe and the US – remixed into something purely local, architecture that blends pagodas with skyscrapers. In the central Orchard District, it seems like the shopping centers have an inexhaustible supply of resources. Their wide-open doors flood the streets with deep synth or techno beats and icy, perfumed air.
The grand lobby of the
Royal Plaza on Scotts was attended by not less than a dozen alert staff: bellmen, valets, concierges, front desk agents, and three or four persons whose only job seemed to be to greet and assist. All were handsome and groomed to a uniform standard of perfection. All wore a sincere smile that American hoteliers can only dream their staff could emulate.
The room was done in a high-contrast Patrick Bateman modern with dark woods and bright accents. It was spotless. In place of the ubiquitous Gideon’s Bible was a copy of the
Koran
, though only 15% of the local population is Muslim (43% are Buddhist). Affixed discreetly to the ceiling, in the northwest corner of the room, was a green sticker with the word, “Kiblat.” Kiblat is a transliteration of Qibla, AKA the Kaaba in Mecca; so I knew in which direction to pray.
It was tempting to hit the streets immediately, but we agreed to relax at the rooftop pool first. Though the skies we somewhat overcast, beating equatorial sun still bored through and recharged us after a long travel day.
Feeling refreshed, we set off for
ION Orchard at the intersection of Scotts and Orchard. ION attracts the hottest tenants: Burberry, Dior, Dolce & Gabbana, Ermenegildo Zegna, Giorgio Armani, Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, Porsche Design, Prada, Salvatore Ferragamo, Yves Saint Laurent, and many more. These top names attract the richest, most beautiful shoppers from all over Asia.
At the very top of ION was a small grocery store in which we found wonderfully obscure Asian treats. Not just seaweed crackers, but Pocky and the most bizarre and creatively shaped candies. We found chips and sodas with flavor combinations that would never find a market in the US.
We then walked a couple of miles east, intermittently dipping out of the heat and into the air-conditioned storefronts. We weaved our way to a mall filled with high school-aged youths loitering, loafing, flirting, and leering. The mood was all bubblegum with amped up pop music pulsing into the treed courtyard and pink and magenta neon strobes flashing
Hello Kitty
,
Domo-kun
, and other cute brands. We slipped into a shop called
Old Town Coffee and ordered ramen and something called “white coffee,” which was actually tea flavored like coffee. This was my first ramen not from a blue cellophane packet, and it was amazing: thick, savory, and heavy. The tea was like some futuristic astronaut food that replicated the flavor of coffee while still allowing my palate to realize I was drinking tea. It was so bizarre.
I fell in love twice a minute for the full time I spent in the city. The women were gorgeous – dressed beautifully, smiling flirtatiously. I would find myself drawn into the welcoming, dark gaze of some unbelievable angel; only to have her whisked away by the crowd. I could barely shake the fuzzy feeling of longing before another stunning face would catch my eye and rattle my poor heart all over again. They were exceedingly polite and dreadfully shy. My attempts at conversation and proposals of marriage were seldom met with more than nervous giggles and returned waves.
As the sun set, we decided to people-watch at the Marriot patio. We couldn’t understand why so few tables were occupied, since its location was perfect. A teetotaler for two years, I decided to try a Tiger Beer. It intoxicated me immediately, and we basked pleasantly in the equatorial heat and the icy glow of ION’s LCD screens across the street. When we got the tab, we figured out why the bar was empty: each pint cost $25, US.
We slept like the dead.
The included Breakfast at the Royal Plaza was an enormous affair. There was a line to appease each international palate: American, European, Chinese, Japanese, and Indian. They offered every conceivable preparation of coffee or tea. I tried everything, but I fixated on an Indian dish called Gobi chili. It’s basically a spicy cauliflower dhal, but I can’t find
a recipe which precisely replicated the Plaza’s flavor.
After breakfast, we took the mass rapid transit (MRT) south to the financial district. It was the cleanest public transportation system I’ve ever encountered, despite crowds packed with the density of livestock. It cost less than a dollar to cross the whole island.
We emerged in the already sweltering morning sun under the icy blue blades of the towering financial district. Some had scaffolding and cranes and workers hammering at their bases or scrambling at their summits. The overall effect was that the steel and glass had thrust out of the streets only moments before.
Under the sweeping shadow of the new
Marina Bay Sands, we traversed the
Helix Bridge toward the
Singapore Flyer. Dad, an engineer, was transfixed by the design and craftsmanship of both projects.
The heat was bearing down on us by the time we reached Merlion Park, whose namesake has a lion’s torso emerging from a fish tail – a national symbol that embodies the meaning of the city’s name (Lion City) and its nautical history as an entrepôt port. We ducked into the historic
Fullerton Hotel for a glass of ice water and a breath of conditioned air.
Along the boat quay were a hundred small seafood shacks – each with colorful posters announcing specials of savory preparations of exotic fishes. Live shellfish of every size, color, and description scuttled and scrambled in their various aquaria.
We went to the
Long Bar at the
Raffles Hotel. If the Tiger Beer at the Marriott made me dizzy, the Singapore Sling had me pretty buzzed. The noontime temperature had me so thoroughly sweat-soaked that I ducked into the Raffles gift shop and bought a tee shirt and an embroidered handkerchief to mop my forehead.
We returned to the Marina Bay Sands and took the elevator 55 stories up to the Skypark, the world’s largest cantilevered structure and longest infinity pool. It afforded 360-degree views of the city to the north, and of the countless ships awaiting entry into the port to the south. Because of the annual haze caused by the Indonesian rainforest-burning 500 miles to the south, a torrential monsoon downpour erupted without warning from the white sky. It lasted not 15 minutes, but it deposited more water in that time that my hometown sees in a year of rain.
We took the MRT back to the Orchard District and enjoyed the sunset with embargo-free Havana cigars on a popular cruising route where the billionaires ousted mere millionaires by displaying their Italian supercars.
The following morning was my father’s presentation at the Algae World conference, so I entertained myself with a final lap around the district. I was out before the malls were open, but the employees stood at smiling attention at their stations at 9:59.
After one final breakfast of Gobi chili, French pastry, Turkish coffee, and Chinese phoenix rolls; we boarded the MRT for the airport. Airport security on the way out of Singapore was unobtrusive, polite, and almost pleasant. Metal detectors were nowhere to be seen. Then again where could one find a weapon of any kind in perhaps the most tightly controlled first-world country on the planet?
We boarded a glistening new A380 and took our seats in the spacious second floor. My Xanax took hold, and I relished the flight to Tokyo which I recall only as a luxurious blend of space and comfort and beauty.
Customs was a breeze at Narita, and we lunched on ramen and tofu. We bought pounds of Japanese kitsch, including an adorable
yukata
for my two-year-old son and a pair of
kamikaze headbands
. Before boarding for LAX, I bought a to-go plate of sashimi and had the best maguro I’ve ever tasted.
Final impressions: I would absolutely recommend Singapore, even if you only have a short time to visit. I would love to return, and I can even picture myself working and living there. I'd just have to plan my schedule around a mid-day shirt-change.
*Click here to read Paul Reep's interview with Algae International Magazine.